🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end names. However, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.